naples daily news

CAMPIELLO RISTORANTE & EMPORI PROVES TO BE A COSMOPOLITAN DELIGHT

By KITT WALSH
Friday, May 14, 1999

If you remember when Naples was all rib joints and swamp buggies, you know sophistication was a long time coming. Now, thanks to restaurants like Campiello, Naples can add "cosmopolitan" to its lexicon.

Campiello Ristorante is what you'd imagine the ideal villa in Tuscany to look like, all sun-washed stone, fountains and open courtyards, wrapped around an open kitchen which smells a lot like heaven. Meats are slowly roasting on oak-fired spits, pizzas are being popped into wood-burning ovens and a line of chefs is making it all look easy.

Campiello is the brainchild of two brothers, Richard and Larry D'Amico, who grew up in the kitchens of their parents' restaurant in Cleveland. In 1995, the brothers opened the first Campiello in Minneapolis, a success story that led to the opening of another Campiello in Eden Prairie, Minn., and, last season, its largest, in Naples.

General manager Pam Nesheim, who transferred from Minneapolis, is the epitome of grace under pressure. Going table-to-table, she makes friends as easily as a seasoned politician.

"I hear the beach is lovely, but I haven't gotten there yet," she admitted.

From opening night, Campiello has been mobbed. Yet once you find a seat, you will be glad you did. Owner Richard D'Amico said, "I feel happier when I'm surrounded by things that are aesthetically pleasing."

With that as his criteria, he must be delirious when he's in his own restaurant. Sit outside if possible, breathe in the night air and watch the stars. You'll be certain somebody paid off the mosquitoes to leave you alone.

Enjoy a signature martini ($5.75-$7.50,) the house specialty, a Bellini made with white peaches and wild raspberry ($6,) your favorite beer ($3.25-$4.50) or share a bottle of wine from the extensive list ($23-$155). Then get ready for a gastronomic delight.

Special to the Daily News Campiello's menu is full of them. Warm up with an appetizer of some Prince Edward Island Mussels ($8.95) or the Spicy Calamari with lemon parsley aioli ($9.95). Then try the Roasted Chicken with spinach and crimini mushroom risotto ($15.95) and a new craving will be born. It will be tough, but save room for dessert. The warm Chocolate Truffle Cake ($5.95) will make a chocoholic out of anyone.

Just when you think it can't get any better, prepare for another caress of your senses. The David Pringle Trio with Zeb Billings entertains in the courtyard and plays some of the smoothest jazz around. The trio started when Billings and Pringle, both musicians and composers, retired to Naples. Billings played with a group called Expresso while Pringle, from Great Britain, performed country club gigs. The two played a concert together at Sugden Theatre that went so well they decided to form a group with Carl McVicker on bass and Nick Campeon or Jim Blakemore on drums. The result is a treat. With selections ranging from Duke Ellington to Thelonius Monk, the group heats up the street.

"We try to play jazz with no compromise and every day we get better," Pringle said. "The great thing about playing all over town through the years," added Billings, who joins the group on weekends, "is that you get to meet the best musicians in town." The group adds the final fillip to a wonderful evening.

"The whole idea of our place is good foods and good times for good friends," Nesheim said. "Eat well, laugh often and live long is the owners' motto for their restaurants."

IF YOU GO
Campiello Ristorante & Empori
1177 Third St. South
HOURS: Lunch is served 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and until 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday.
ENTERTAINMENT: The David Pringle Trio plays Wednesday and Thursday from 7 to 10:30 p.m. and Friday and Saturday until 11 p.m.
DETAILS: All major credit cards accepted. Reservations strongly encouraged. Wheelchair accessible.
Information: 435-1166.